🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.